Modern Oak Book Case 2022
The Experience
This Modern Oak Book Case was a huge learning experience. I implemented a couple new woodworking techniques which tested my patience throughout. In the end this was truly a labor of love: as it became my first gift to my son, Wesley. Here are some notes on the build:
My starting materials were CHEAP. I scored a bundle of oak trim from ReStore for less than $40. Trim is ALWAYS available at ReStore, the question is if they have unshaped trim. If you want cheap, straight hardwood and don't mind a little extra work, this is an option. After planing off the finish, the final actual thickness was ~3/4". Most trim is too thin to do a project like this, but because this trim was so beefy to start with, I was able to get away with it. All boards were simply glued and pressed, no biscuits/dowels necessary given the width. I actually started to run out of material on the dividers, so I had to get creative with my scraps-- just rolling with the punches! One drawback to repurposing trim is all the nail holes. For some projects (and for woodworking purists) this can be a deal breaker. I happen to love the story the holes tell and I don't feel the final product is diminished one iota. Embrace the flaws! If the nail holes are bothersome, wood filler/epoxy/CA glue can work wonders.
I wanted to do seamless waterfall joints for the corners to complete that modern feel. This was my first attempt at a waterfall joint so I knew it would be a challenge. I had to build a sled for my table saw so that I could push the pieces through. If you do not have a sled, I would recommend watching a YouTube video on how to make one. It's pretty simple and only requires scrap wood that you already have laying around. They are really handy for precision cross cuts. It is also zero clearance which allows you to make all those tight "shave" cuts safely. Alternatively, I could have used a circular saw on a 45 degree angle for the cuts, but I didn't trust the accuracy with my tools. Once the cuts were made I put in perpendicular biscuit joints in the seams for strength. The joints were not perfect after the glue-up so I concocted some wood filler with oak dust and glue, filled in the gaps and sanded. Took patience, but eventually I was satisfied with the seams.
Dado cuts can be intimidating, but you can do them, and they are so worth it. In this case, I cut stopped dados for the dividers. This was congruent with the modern look, but, more importantly, tight dados are very strong joints. This piece really needed that stability from the mid section given its length. There are 2 ways to cut dados-- router or table saw. If you elect to do the table saw, I would recommend investing in a dado blade set. If you are going to be doing a lot of dados (unstopped), I think this option is the most efficient. I used the router option for my stopped dados, which works well, but setting up the fence needs to be precise. You only get one chance to do a dado cut right. Measure twice, cut once, right? More like measure 3 times and practice on scraps first.
Danish oil doesn't get much attention, but it is one of my favorite finishes. Here is what I love: A) Application is super simple: brush/wipe on and it just soaks in. You don't have to worry about streaking or using pre stain, just wipe off the excess. It is fool proof and you can apply in a dusty shop. B) It is a wood "enhancer". I tend to select natural wood enhancers like danish oil, rather than stains with a ton of pigment. I think stains can detract from the natural beauty of the species you're working with. I don't want my oak to look like walnut, I just want the natural oak grain to pop. C) It hardens in the wood for some level of protection. For a lot of projects, danish oil is all you need! I did want a bit more sheen and protection because I knew my son would be climbing (and drooling) all over it, so I ended up applying a couple coats of semi gloss poly after the danish oil.
You can never have enough clamps. I literally used ratcheting clamps for the final glue up, which actually worked fairly well, but the metal on those can mar the wood. I am going to invest in one of those 4 corner strap clamps for future boxes.
Starting material is used oak trim that I scored from ReStore. After planing off the finish, final actual thickness was ~3/4". Most trim is too thin to do a project like this, but given the thickness of my starting material, I was able to get away with it. All boards were simply glued and pressed, no biscuit/dominos necessary given the width.
Almost ran out of material so I got creative with scraps for the dividers
Waterfall Joints
Wanted to do seamless waterfall joints for the corners to complete that modern feel. This was my first attempt at a waterfall joint so I knew it would be a challenge. I had to build a sled for my table say so that i could push the whole piece through. Alternatively, could have used a circular saw on a 45 degree angle. Once the cut was made I put in biscuit joints in the corners to strengthen. The joints were not perfect after the glue up so I concocted some wood filler with oak ash and glue and filled in the gaps in the seams and sanded down. Result was to my satisfaction (right).
Birch panel back stained and rabbeted in for a hidden look. Stained the birch with Puritan Pine by Minwax to match oak.
Stopped dados cut for the divider inserts. Extremely strong joint, snug fit and completely hidden seam contribute to the clean modern aesthetic
Black steel 6" hairpin legs
Chamfer routering on the outer panels
Sanded to 220 grit, then danish oil and three thinned coats of oil based semigloss polyurethane